Monday, June 7, 2010

BANGKOK - DAY 7

This is what Bangkok is to us...its unique way of life, the less touristy bits, real heartland type of activities that people like us don't see unless we go looking for it...Old Bangkok. We started off the day with a boat ride with the locals along the Chao Phraya river. I'd read up on the best way to ride up the river and one of the cheapest and scenic way was to take the Chao Praya River Express Boat with the orange flag. This only costs between 14 and 20 Baht per person and it was free for Meg. The advice is not to travel on these during peak periods as it's extremely crowded with standing room only, if one's lucky. We thoroughly enjoyed our short boat ride and will probably do it again the next time we come back.
Our destination for the afternoon: Tha Tien pier, a place where dried seafood is sold. The fishy smells permeated the air as we got off, and the pier, although a little run down, was filled with shops selling tourist souvenirs. The area still has an old-world charm feel to it, and this pier is directly opposite Wat Arun across the river and is also the stop for the Grand Palace and Wat Pho which are just a stone's throw away.
This is a typical scene one would encounter in Vietnam or Cambodia...and Bangkok.
The small area adjoining the pier which has a few wholesale dried seafood shops.

The beautiful spires of Wat Pho. We didn't go inside as we were inappropriately dressed. In our numerous visits to Bangkok, we've yet to visit a temple. I've always wanted to go to the Grand Palace but one has to be dressed in long pants, collared shirt and covered shoes to go inside. In this heat, the thought of wearing all that is a little off-putting but we'll strive to do that next time.
We walked south along Maharat Road which is parallel to the river to visit a bookstore called River Books Shop. We'd read about it in a book but the shop doesn't carry that many titles and is not really worth a visit in itself but the journey along the way was quite an experience. We stopped by a riverside cafe next to this very nice looking boutique hotel called Aurum. What better way than to relax by the river on a balmy late afternoon, cheap drinks in one hand, camera in the other...
On our way out of the riverside cafe soi, we came across a group of school kids having a meal. MJ went up to them to chat, and found that most students their age can speak English. The ones in lower Primary, however, don't really speak it. Perhaps they learn it when they're older. Love the colours in this pix!
Ahhhh..one of the highlights of the day...FOOD! We came across a streetside vendor making fresh Thai-styled pancakes, known as "Khanom Buang" outside a school that was about to end for the day. She made mini ones at only 1baht each! We ordered 10 at first, but after popping just one into our mouths, went back to get another 20 pieces! They're super delicious!
It was mesmerizing to see how the lady expertly made these snacks and how she knew just when to take them off the hot plate and to fold them with a flick of the fingers.
Adapted from the internet: Khanom Buang starts with a simple batter made from wheat flour, rice flour, mungbean flour, eggs, salt, palm sugar and water. The batter is carefully spread on the hot electric stainless grill, then as it's cooking various toppings are added. Toppings include dried coconut, fried coconut, raisins, foi tong (a Thai sweet dessert), minced shrimp, cilantro, sesame seeds, and our favorite--a basic white cream made of egg whites, palm sugar, and a few drops of lime juice. We love the sweet ones with the yellow dried coconut with the white cream. Heavenly!
School lets out at 5pm and it's a typical scene all over the world, where parents clog up the entrance at the gate and cars jam up the road in front of it. What's different here is that the street to the left and right of the gate is lined with vendors selling cheap snacks and knick-knacks for the kids. Business is brisk as it's not just the kids who patronize these vendors, but their parents and guardians as well!
We walked on and arrived at Pak Klong Talat, the biggest flower and vegetable market in the city. Basked in evening light, both MJ and I went crazy shooting shadows and activity against the golden light while poor Meg observed but not without some impatience, pleading with us every so often to go back to the hotel. I managed to bargain with her to allow us to stay until the sun set in return for a tuk tuk ride, one of her favourite activities in Bangkok.

The amount of flowers being transported is amazing. One can just stand at the side of the busy road to observe for hours, workers pushing and pulling their carts up, down and across the road. We had to make an effort not to get into people's way!
The scene was overwhelming...something was happening at every corner of eyes that we didn't know where to look. The light was brilliant and we were frantically making shots so we wouldn't waste the rare opportunity of capturing nice long shadows amidst a bustling scene.
Still, we stayed on the main road and didn't venture deeper into the little lanes and inside the markets itself. There was already so much to see outside. The evening light disappeared all too quickly but left us photographically satisfied.
This is the real Bangkok that tourists like us don't often see, especially if one comes to Bangkok just to shop and eat. It is, however, quite difficult to indulge in photographing a place full of visual potential like this with a child in tow. But Meg has been pretty good about it so far and we can't expect more from her.
The tuk tuk ride we promised Meg we'd take.
We managed to squeeze in a short quick visit to Khaosan Road, or the backpackers' area since MJ has never been there before. It wasn't that bustling on this Monday evening and we walked the short stretch in less than half an hour, avoiding the numerous street touts selling wooden croaking frogs, fake student IDs, streetside Pad Thai, Tshirts, cigarette lighters etc. The place is teeming with Caucasians who simply love to sit by the pedestrianized road, people watching as they guzzle their beers. To us, it's yet another tourist trap and we were just there to 'take a look'.
Khao San at dusk.

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