Wednesday, August 28, 2013

Bangkok - Day 3 (Sunday, 25 August 2013)

Sunday was Chatuchak day! We usually go on both days, Saturday and Sunday but this time, we had nothing specific to buy and were there for only about 2-3 hours. The highlight of the day was dinner at Bo.Lan... Read on...

Greyhound.Chicken.Wings.Yum.

Jasmine rice with lots of crabmeat. They weren't lying about that!

My favourite drink in the whole wide world. Especially this version.

Oysters and Foie Gras for lunch. Unheard of... according to my lifestyle. But there's always a first time and it's easy to get used to this!

The menu says this is noodle soup with very tender beef... they weren't lying about this either! Look at all that lard. I gobbled every single piece. :o) ... :o(

The train passes the Victory Monument on its way to Mo Chit. This is where protesters usually gather when there is a mass demonstration, like the last massive one in 2010. The screen that overlays the picture is the advertisement stickers on the exterior of the train. Makes it impossible to get a nice clean shot! :(

An aerial view (well sort of) of Chatuchak Market. I believe it's the biggest in the world. The mantra when shopping here is that if you see something you like, buy it immediately cos you're not going to be able to find the shop again. I know where the shops I regularly patronise are, but beyond those few, I'm too at a loss.

It's rainy season, thus off-peak for tourists, though it didn't seem off-peak to me that afternoon!

Interesting colours of an umbrella.

Another must visit... Or Tor Kor, a very clean market where rich Tai Tais buy their fruits and produce. Naturally the prices here are higher than in other markets but it's so dry and clean, and one is spoilt for choice in terms of local food and fruits. We bought two crates of honey mangoes (Nam Doc Mai) home. Each crate of 12 was about S$45.50 but these are the largest ones. Works out to about S$3.70 each minus the 'shipping' aka MJ and Steph hand delivery express!

This is a section of Chatuchak that most people don't venture to. It's behind the main market and has retro and traditional furiture shops and lots of pet shops. There are a few stalls within the main market which display cute little puppies but this section is chocabloc full of pet stores. Some are so exotic that I was quite appalled that they keep these animals like lizards, turtles, rabbits, etc in cages. I just wanted to get outta there!

And now for the highlight of the day, and perhaps the entire trip... our dinner at Bo.lan essentially Thai restaurant, located at 42 Sukhumvit 26 Soi Pichai Ronnarong Songkram Klongtoey Bangkok 10110, Thailand Phone:+66 2 260 2962. Reservations essential. They are open only for dinner, from Tuesday to Sunday, 6pm till late. (about midnight) http://www.bolan.co.th The name for the restaurant comes from a combo of its two owners, husband and wife team of Dylan Jones and Duangporn Songvisava (Bo). It is also a version of the word "ancient" says a NYT review... Thus Bo.lan was founded. Read about their philosophy and history in the link above.  

Look out for this sign, midway into Soi 26. We entered by Rama IV but it's about the same distance if you enter from Sukhumvit.

They offer indoor and outdoor seating. Very mood.

We had the Bo.lan Balance menu at B1880++ per person. We started off with pre-dinner drinks. Since we don't drink alcohol, they gave us this instead.

We are supposed to start from left to right. I don't know what the drink on the left is. I asked the staff and they told me but my bad memory didn't allow me to retain the information. It was sweet and pleasant though. The green liquid is pandan water. It was not sweet, just fragrant. Then the yellowish green fruit is gooseberry and the orange seed is mango with tamarind, chilli flakes and salt, and a slice of mango.

Again, we were to eat this dish from left to right and I didn't manage to catch what each taste is. But here's what I managed to catch: (L-R): curry chicken on a cracker; I don't know what the second one is. it was like a light, crispy, ball shaped appetiser; spicy bamboo shoot. this was really spicy and I had to wipe my nose after having it! rice wrapped in banana leaf. of course it wasn't just rice but done in a certain way but I couldn't pin down the style; pork in steamed egg. I'm useless at remembering things!

This was a pretty spicy noodle dish, which tasted like lasksa, but more interesting with bursts of lemak and salty flavours. 

An 'intermission' of sweet shredded dried pork to take the spiciness of the first few dishes away.

Stir-fried pork tender with Santol. This was tasty too but the least special, I thought.

Relish of salty duck egg simmered in coconut cream and minced prawn served with grilled squid.
This was my favourite dish. The light saltiness and sweet creaminess of the dish was heaven to the tastebud!

“Mon” Style Khi lek curry with daily ocean fish. The curry had lots of spices and the fish was very fresh. A delicious dish, not too spicy.

Preserved mustard green (otherwise known as kiam chye) to go with the beef and mangosteen dish below. I liked the stone bowl it came in.

Salad of “KU” Beef with organic mangosteen and chili mint dressing. This was good. The beef was done medium and the mangosteen was sweet and complementary.

Fried fish in tumeric with bits of garlic. The fish was very fresh and the portion was sizeable. Each of us had one piece that was very meaty.

We had three choices of soup: Chicken and prawn (non spicy); pork rib (medium spicy); chicken (spicy). We both had the first option.

Ah... hot Chiang Mai tea with ginger, spices and honey to wash everything down...

Oh there was one dessert which I forgot to photograph... its the granita ice pop infused with yeasty pandanus leaf essence. Sweet and refreshing...

Just when we thought the tea was the end of it, this lovely cracker with sticky honey and sago in coconut milk. We were truly stuffed by this time... and almost fainted when the next and last dessert (dessert du joir) was brought out!

Such a lovely, colourful dessert so well presented on a granite slate. There was crackers, thai biscuit, green sago with coconut strips, agar agar, fried banana fritters, tamarind, toffee, a kueh bangkit like white coloured biscuit and a small bowl of coconut cream with something in it. 

We were ready to roll out of the restaurant after the last dish was served. We paid compliments to Bo and chatted with her for awhile. She and her husband will be coming to Singapore next month to host a couple of cooking classes. We mentioned that there was too much food and we were really full towards the end and she acknowledged this but said that Thais like to get their money's worth so she and her husband spent a lot of time and effort coming up with the menu, and they had to make it 'value for money'
We enjoyed this wonderful dinner and will recommend Bo.lan to our friends. It was definitely more than value for money and we had a lovely evening. They were fully booked when we called to make a reservation but were available from 9.30pm. We began our meal at around 10pm and didn't finish til about midnight. 

Tuesday, August 27, 2013

Bangkok - Day 2 (Saturday, 24 August 2013)

The first thing we do when we awake each morning is to decide where to go for breakfast, or if we are up late, lunch. We are in the middle of everything. Food surrounds us. We are spoilt for choice and it's quite a mind boggling exercise to decide. So we settled on Greyhound (no surprise) cafe's special Surf n Turf menu - for a limited time only - but when we got to the cafe located at Siam Center on the 3rd flr, the line was so long we didn't even bother. Siam Center has many restaurants, not to mention Singapore's very own Food Republic but who goes to Bangkok to eat at a Singapore local food court?! The simple decor at "On The Table" drew us to it and since there was no queue, we were seated quite quickly and the food arrived in double quick time.

I had their Japanese Curry Gratin, rice in curry gravy (non-spicy) topped with a layer of cheese and baked. It was simply delicious! I felt a bit guilty eating rice but it was very satisfying!

Both MJ and I love clams so ordering this in garlic white wine sauce was a no brainer!

Neither can we resist calamari...yes, it's as crispy as it looks!

Simple decor, simple design, simple food. Simply good!

After lunch we strayed to Siam Discovery Center next door and went to LOFT. They have cool stuff there and we rarely leave the place without buying something. It's worth a visit. We wanted to get this innovative mobile water dispenser which can fit any pet bottle with the universal sized mouth (970B = S$40) but discovered that tourists get 10% discount if they present their passports so I put off buying it until I had my passport with me. 
One of the places we wanted to go to on our last trip but didn't get round to is Talad Rod Fai. This is the weekend night market which carries lots of vintage and retro ware and they were originally located at a former railway station (Rod Fai means railway) about 15 mins walk from Chatuchak. They moved to a much further location a few months back so we made the trip out, thinking we might snag another good deal like we did the last time with our old radio. 
To get there, we had to take the BTS to Punniwithi station, two stations from On Nut (which used to be the last station before they added five more), take exit 1 and walk against the traffic flow to Soi 101/1. Along the way, we saw a woman grilling salt covered fish.

The fish looked interesting. We saw another hawker selling the same thing, and noticed they use the same fish. This particular one was located just next to a petrol station.

We took a cab along soi 101/1 to Seacon Square which is about 2km away. The cab snaked through the little sois and we would've gotten lost if we had tried to find our own way. We passed by a CHIJ and I was excited to see its name and badge at the entrance. 

It's always comforting to see a CHIJ overseas. I'm proud of my convent education and will always be proud to be an IJ alumni.

Also saw a father kissing his baby...

... and another hawker preparing sausages at her cart.

After we had disembarked from the taxi across from Seacon, and as were making our way across the overhead bridge, we suddenly heard a thunderous bang that sounded like a huge explosion. Everyone was shocked and turned toward its source and it was this moment that I snapped what's probably my best pix of the trip...

I had my camera pointed at this woman because I was about to take a photo of her. I was struck by the environment in which she was selling her food. The background was a messy sight/site and there she was dressed in red with her colourful dishes. This was when the loud sound exploded and she instinctively put her hands to her mouth in shock and fear. The 'explosion' turned out to be nothing. It was probably some part of a heavy crane that had slipped and created the loud sound upon impact. Everyone kept looking in its direction trying to figure out what happened. The crane driver hopped out, did a quick check round the vehicle and hopped back in and went on his way. So that was that.

Talad Rod Fai is just behind Seacon Square but it only opens just before sundown and since we were there slightly early, we popped into the huge mall where we chanced upon the tail end of a national cheerleading competition. 

The top prize was 150,000B (about S$6200) and the kids were still on adrenalin high even after the competition had ended. They hung around the stage hoisting each other up, obviously not having had enough of the action earlier. 

And finally, we arrived at Talad Rod Fai...

It occupies a huge area. This row of shops faces Seacon. Behind them are probably hundreds of stalls and open areas where vans just drive up, park and display their stuff by the side of their vehicles.

Would love to get me one of these!

This shop was empty except for the lights. The lady in charge was sitting at one corner.

Rows and rows of tentage housed little shops. It was more like a night market, rather than a retro market. They had lots of foodstalls, and clothes and knick knacks. 

The crowd mainly consisted of youngsters.The crowd was swelling by about 7pm.

This is the stuff we came to see...

Only that we can't possibly buy them for now. Maybe later when we move.

Old tins and enamel coated pots!

\
Ultraman?

What a cool seat! That's design for you! Only by the Thais...

Cool Cadillacs and Harleys filled this space... 

and outside...

Can you imagine how long it took the owner to lay these out so neatly?!

Nice way of displaying umbrellas...lit, on a ladder. 

That's what I ended up with after spending about 2.5hrs there. Not very fruitful but I was quite happy with the square switches. Please disregard the TV base on the top right. Got the Kodak camera for about S$80, the light switches for about S$5/piece, the heavy copper taps were S$4/each, and the musical instruments were a few bucks each. Not a great haul but it wasn't too bad. The original Talad Rod Fai was much better though. More vintage and retro stuff. This one is more like a night market and it's not really worth going all the way out there to visit... at least that's my opinion...I mourn the loss of the original Talad Rod Fai... Sob!